Big mistake using AK Interactive Camouflage putty for masking

Yes, I use Klean-Strip lacquer thinner with them and it works wonderfully.

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Cool, thanks Matt, Klean Strip is what I’ve been using with AK.
Sorry for stepping on your thread @modelbouwnederland, BTW, like your new avatar! :slightly_smiling_face:

Cajun :crocodile:

No problem, I may be learning a thing or two from this as well. Gathering information and learning from others is another fun part of the hobby. I’m glad you like my avatar. Not using own photo’s, just picking images from the internet. Most of the time I like to use icons and such.

I will be providing more replies later, probably this day. Not having enough time right now. Thanks so far for providing answers snd information. :hugs:

@Halaci Thanks again for providing a well formed answer to my topic. I have searched the mask on the internet and I found it. I have also talked to my dad about my plans to purchase also these additional protections. But my dad says, you are not airbrushing that much that you really need those protections. I also have glasses for seeing far away and close by. So maybe a mask isn’t really a good option? Or are there also masks like these specially designed for people that are wearing glasses?
I have a spray booth from Fengda. I don’t know the type and number on the top of my head. But it did a good job with extracting in the beginning. Now it still works, but I’m having the idea that it somehow doesn’t work as well as it did in the beginning. Maybe I post another topic about this. Or search the forums for more information on this topic.
I’m always having a window and a door open when I’m airbrushing. I always airbrush in the barn.
Thank you for the suggestion of pricings, to look things up before buying an expensive piece of kit if it also is possible to buy something cheap that does the job. I will consider it. However, in my experience I’m most of the time satisfied the most when I’m buying a high quality product to do the job. And when I’m able to use the thing again.
I don’t know where to get that Alcohol, but I’m happy with the proprietary products, but thanks for the tip.
I’m hearing a lot of good stories from Mr. Hobby products, Leveling Thinner is passing in topics and video’s a lot. So I’m really curious to try out more products of Mr. Hobby. As I’m highly valuing high quality products to use.
For purchasing, I now try to do research before I purchase something. Searching internet, watching reviews, talking to others and listen to their experiences and opinions. And maybe even more other things. Most important to me is satisfaction and that I have a good quality product that will last me for a very long time. And I’m willing to pay the extra money for that if it pays back in the long run.

IPA: it depends on the local regulations, where can you buy it. The two most likely source are the places where sanitizers are sold, or electronics shops, because it is also used for degreasing the IC components.

Tools: If you can afford, high quality tools are obviously a good choice. Sprue nippers, airbrush, photoetch tools I usually buy the best I can too, because those are long lasting tools. Consumables on the other hand I try to use (or at least try) cheaper or commonly available alternatives. Simply because I don’t always want to order a file or a bottle of thinner if I’m out of it. Eg. I use IPA often not only because it’s cheaper for cleaning the airbrush, but because it comes in 1L bottles and not in 0,1 :slight_smile:

Mask: if you don’t use airbrush much, then the extractor is probably enough. I’m wearing glasses too, the mask isn’t a problem, though obviously you have to get accustomed to it.

Thanks again for replying.
I have been thinking about my airbrushing and scale modeling.
And I just came to the conclusion that I wasn’t scale modeling that much.
Since, at the time of writing.
My only day I’m really scale modeling is on Saturday morning.
Because it’s summer here. And the only time it is doable with temperatures and weather is in the mornings.
And airbrushing is done even less, since I’m building my models slowly.
Taking my time for things.
And usually I’m encountering problems with my scale modeling.
And I often don’t know a good solution for them, bringing my scale modeling time down even more.
And with no working spray guns anymore, because it seems when I’m taking the guns apart for cleaning it as is constantly told here to do. I’m getting my spray guns out of action.
I’m having Fengda airbrushes.
I did like them in the beginning, but as I’m progressing with airbrushing.
I want to upgrade my spray gun.
But, good spray guns are expensive and can’t buy a good new one at the moment.
So my project of the Famo has been halted because of this.
Bottom line is, I’m constantly thinking now of how much time and how often I’m doing scale modeling stuff. And often wondering if I’m really needing something if I’m not that often doing something.
I’m sorry if my answer is of a little less high quality. I’m not having much time now to reply. And I’m typing things out on my tablet, which I don’t like that much. But don’t have much choice because of weather and temperature conditions.

The Paasche VL is probably the best starter airbrush. They regularly go on sale, at least we’re I live for around $90. They are robust, hard to damage, and really good for all but the most delicate detail work

I wouldn’t upgrade your airbrush though until you have the time to practice with it. No airbrush will make up for the inability to practice

@modelbouwnederland - that’s the classic description of using the wrong airbrush for this stage of your model building career in my opinion.

The Paasche VL is a very good and simple to maintain airbrush as Mead93 mentioned.

However, the Paasche H is even more robust and simple to maintain. It’s an external mix airbrush that delivers excellent quality paint results. One with call three spray heads can be found for under $50. You might need an adapter or new airhose. If a needle and nozzle get ruined its like $8 to replace the set.

When I say robust, I have an old Paasche H purchased in 1988 that I still use today :slight_smile:

Please see the following thread below. I demonstrate some of what the old reliable simple to maintain Paasche H is capable of doing and how to clean it.

Old School Shadow Painting

Thank you all for replying.
I was thinking to purchase Harder en Steenbeck airbrush.
Probably the evolution or something.
My reasoning behind it is, it is much easier to clean and no possibility to damage the nozzle.
Because they have some kind of system with a cap that you screw on.
And you lay it probably in that cap the nozzle, and you screw everything.
No damage to the needle while de mounting the whole gun.
With nice handgrip and things everywhere.

But as I’m reading these comments, Paasche is probably also an interesting brand to take a look at.
It is cheaper then Harder en Steenbeck.
And if it is as robust as you are all saying, it might be worth the investment.
Does the Paasche airbrushes you are mentioning have an screw on nozzle? With a rubber O-Ring?
Because my current spray guns are using the same construction.
And I’m not having great experiences with these kind of construction.
To much risk of damaging the nozzle with screwing back on.
And easily able to damage the O-Ring.

Anyway, thanks for the suggestions and I will take a closer look at these spray guns from Paasche.

Last but not least, you are saying that the airbrushes I’m describing are an example of inappropriate airbrushes for the stage of modeling and airbrushing I’m in. What did you mean exactly with that? That it is to difficult and advanced to use? Or that it is to simple and below my skill I have with airbrushing?

Now I did remember suddenly what I wanted to add to the reply. :sweat_smile:

Pictures of the Paasche H and cleaning it in detail were provided in the link I posted above.
Here they are posted again.

Now for the less fun but absolutely necessary Cleaning the Airbrush. I’m sure most folks know how to do this and probably are more diligent than myself but this is critical so…

The Paasche H is easy to clean. Removing color cup blasting some solvent through is basic.

Loosen retaining screw w/supplied Allen wrench.

Slide needle & cone back

Unscrew and remove needle & cone

Flush cone with thinner. If obstructed a shaved tooth pick and thinner is useful to gently remove paint.

After cleaning inspect cone. If it’s damaged replace. A nicked or split cone will screw up spraying.

Clean nozzle, Q tip & thinner/solvent.

Clean and wipe out this area.

Wet & wipe

Flush out

Clean out where color cup attaches

Flush again

If paint remains used shaved tooth pick, pipe cleaner to remove etc. Always flush throughly afterwards.

Reassemble. Cone in first and then insert needle.

I always want that opening in the end of the needle pointed up aligned to the air flow. I don’t want to the side or down. Most say it won’t matter. Always putting in same alignment helps keep things consistent and that matters. If you really get to know your Paasche H, you’ll probably decide it matters.

BTW - FWIW this #1 needle was hand polished by me. Most will say it doesn’t matter with an external mix brush. I think it helps a tiny bit.

Gently snug down retaining screw.

Flush with thinner again to confirm all is good. I like to feed with Clean pipette.

One can also load a drop or two of prepped paint this way for minor touch up. Saves cleaning the color cup.

The cleaning the color cup. A surprising amount of issues for all airbrushes come from dirty color cups. A bit of crap will flake off and cause a clog or worse.

When done, I empty color cup and wipe it out then refill it with thinner and let it sit soaking while cleaning the airbrush.

Pictures should be self explanatory. Always flush after using a pipe clean. They can shed.

One more small Flush with thinner to make sure all is good. Blow until dry and a little more. Ready for another trouble free session :relieved::hugs:

…or another 175-200 models:)

Based on you what you’ve shared, it appears to be very difficult at your current level of experience with airbrushes to keep your current dual action internal mix airbrush operating efficiently.

Alternative airbrushes have been mentioned in the thread. I’ve airbrushed for just over 45 years and have a fair amount of experience with external mix, internal mix and dual action external mix airbrushes doing 200+ model projects. I’ve Badger, Iwata, Paasche, Thayer-Chandler, Aztek, Binks & Harder and Steenbeck plus a host of others over the years.

Based on that experience, I suggested the Paasche H which is the AK-47 of airbrushes. It’s an excellent, inexpensive, simple all around airbrush capable of producing high-quality paint work.

Harder and Steenbeck Evolution, I have one and can honestly say it’s a decent airbrush. It’s very slightly more capable than my customized and tuned Paasche VL that cost 1/3 as much. In my experience the HS is a better design but a hair more finicky to keep a peak efficiency. In other words, my VL gets used about four times as much as my new Harder and Steenbeck Evolution but I have a lot of VL experience.

My Iwata Custom Micron B photo retouch airbrush outclasses the Harder and Steenbeck airbrush in every way except price costing ~3x as much list retail. HS is more finicky to keep a peak efficiency than the Micron.

With all that said my old Paasche H still gets used overall more than any of the half dozen or so airbrushes I own.

For a rough idea of how the old Paasche H can paint seeT-34-85 below. It was painted entirely using a Paasche H. The flat coat was shot with Paasche VL because I wanted a very thin layer of flat coat. Many others modelers can do even better with either airbrush.

Thank you for sharing this information with me.
I have never seen an airbrush like that one before.
I’m finding it look ugly if I’m honest with you.
Are there any gravity feed double action airbrushes that are affordable and are reliable to use? Easy to clean and maintain?
Because I think I’m liking gravity feed more.
And I’m also finding looks of some importance to me when purchasing an airbrush spray gun.
Remember, I also have to look to it all those times that I have to clean it and put it away for storage. :wink:
However, I must say that I’m impressed with the T-34-85 model you made. It is on a whole other level compared to my models and skills and experience I currently own with scale modeling.

Iwata Eclipse HP-CS.

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Thank you for sharing this information with me.
I have never seen an airbrush like that one before.
I’m finding it look ugly if I’m honest with you.

LOL :slight_smile: The Paasche H isn’t going to win many beauty contests. The beauty in the H is in its elegant, simple and efficient design. The H is about function not aesthetic appearance. One might say it has a Bauhaus design flavor. Given Paasche started in 1904, the H may even have been designed with utilitarian Bauhaus in mind.

How the old Paasche AB Turbo a unique external mix photo retouch airbrush designed many decades ago could be called…ugly…but it was a world class butt-kicker in its hay-day :slight_smile:

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Are there any gravity feed double action airbrushes that are affordable and are reliable to use? Easy to clean and maintain?

Because I think I’m liking gravity feed more.

FWIW - All the testing I’ve seen and or done shows gravity feed is meaningless for modeling unless you’re spraying inks instead of paint.

All of the internal mix double action airbrushes I’ve seen are harder to clean and more to maintain than a Paasche H.

I’d favor a middle of the road Iwata airbrush for what you’re seeking.

The Paasche VJR would be my personal choice gravity feed (it’s basically a gravity fed VL) it’s an old design, with a fat body and out of production.

And I’m also finding looks of some importance to me when purchasing an airbrush spray gun.

Remember, I also have to look to it all those times that I have to clean it and put it away for storage. :wink:

Honestly, I don’t relate to the appearance of an airbrush being meaningful. Ruthless efficiency and capability rule in Wade’s World :slight_smile:

We all have our own unique list of criteria that’s important to us and we should follow it best as possible to be happy with our tools. :slight_smile:

However, I must say that I’m impressed with the T-34-85 model you made. It is on a whole other level compared to my models and skills and experience I currently own with scale modeling.

Thank you for the kind comments.

Everything in modeling is basic techniques we can all learn and share.

I can tell you’re a dedicated modeler and will reach and surpass my skill level with a little practice and a couple of model kits completed. That’s a good thing too because I enjoy learning from others as well :slight_smile:

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I would focus on function over beauty. After all you don’t have to take it to bed at the end of the night. I personally would rather have nice models and an ugly airbrush than the other way around, due to buying the wrong tools.

If I were you I’d focus on the Paasche H and VL. Decide if you want dual action or single action. Single action is easier to use but lacks finer control for thing like camo or detail painting. If you want single action get the H and if you want dual get the VL.

Both can be found for good deals. I got my VL in a set that came with three nozzles, and needle sizes, with a air hose, and the airbrush for I think $100 Canadian. It’s easily the best affordable airbrush kit there.

Not to sound rude but at your current airbrush skill level I wouldn’t buy the best most expensive airbrush. They are amazing but require great skill to reach their full potential. They are also much more expensive to keep up and running and require more care.

For example the paasche vl nozzles and needles can be replaced if you break them for like $5. They are also durable and cleaning is a breeze. I don’t recommend it but I’ve dropped mine a couple times and it didn’t even notice.

Best of luck


@Armor_Buff Thank you for the compliment. Those words mean a lot to me. Since I’m especially now trying my very best to advance and get better in the hobby. I to like to learn constantly. From others as well. Thanks for the comments, really appreciated.

@Mead93 Thank you for your comment about the expensive airbrushes. You are having a good point what you are making. First start cheap and gradually go up the price until you are satisfied. That being said, my airbrushes were just a couple of ten euro’s to purchase. In comparison to the airbrushes I saw at airbrush services Almere. Those airbrushes at modelbouw krikke Groningen were very cheap to purchase. But expensive to keep in running condition.
I will be looking for something more affordable and maybe just in the middle of all things. I will keep Iwata in mind, and all the other suggestions of you all as well. And pick and choose. And make decisions based on my own specifications and what I’m finding important.Don’t have a great amount of knowledge about airbrushes, I’m glad you are all wanting to help me out. Thank you very much. :hugs: :handshake: :+1:

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Don’s Airbrush Tips

Don is a former engineer and has tested dozens of airbrushes. His site is well worth a careful look and read.

Bookmarked the site, will take a closer look later.

Try a Badger 100G. It is an inexpensive and robust gravity fed, dual action airbrush. It is much easier to clean than my Harder & Steenbeck Infinity.