Here are my very first WIP pictures.
Unfortunately Trumpeter made a mistake with the lower hull by using a BTR-80 hull with a winch access hatch which is not present on any of the 2S23 pictures I’ve seen. So I first had to fix this before gluing some parts.
A more detailed story is to be read Here: FFE 2S23 NONA-SVK
Olivier
now also my first pictures. the olive parts are from the second kit and are needed to show the difference between A1 and A2. there are also 3D parts from Mad-Modellbau. Perfect scale decals and Leopard Club antennas are on the way.
Z.V.
Some progress on the 2S23.
The suspension is over and the basic interior is done and the hull is now closed.
More here
Olivier
Looks great Olivier.
Well, a start has been made;
15cm Nebelwerfer and Hummel all in 1/100 scale
Sorry a Panzergrenadier HQ advanced into the last photo.
Lol… those HQ elements always sneak around and no one knows when or where they will show up next …
These flames of war kits do look really good … I still really want to try and do a Cr1 Troop in a hide area cammed up …
It seems there are a lot of table top games which exist, I don’t know this one.
I tried a “Warhammer” game when I was a child.
The tanks look well made.
Every time i see their booth at a game con i have to resist a BAOR purchase.
@Terminator @Striker Well I have already built a lot of a British late war army - 11th Armoured with supporting element of 79th Armoured, 4th Battalion Coldstream Guards and 6th Airborne. More being built since I last posted photos in this thread; Flames of War WWII British
BAOR; for that the game is called Team Yankee based on the book of the same name; Team Yankee
The Team Yankee has taken a back seat while I complete the British and German WWII armies. I do have some Sextons and Land Mattress to do for the British.
Small progress on the 2S23.
The hull is assembled so I can add the various details.
I’ve erased the molded-on electric cables conduits for the headlights and replaced them by some 0.3 and 0.4 mm styrene rod bits.
Olivier
Nice. Do you bend the styrene rod just by softening it with cement or something else?
Hello Phil
I just use a round tool with the appropriate diameter. A brush handle is a good one considering the styrene rod is very thin.
Olivier
Some little progress on the 2S23.
The left side lights are glued and wired too.
Here is how the hull currently looks. Still some details to add before starting the turret.
Olivier
Three hours of work for one track.
The plastic handles were removed, holes were drilled, wire handles will be added later.
V.Z.
I’m always down for some artillery!
I’ve had this kit for several years now and I’m ready to give it a “shot.”
Mike
One question for the cannon-cockers here. How difficult would it be to backdate AFV Club’s M102 105mm howitzer to represent a Vietnam War era, as opposed to the Desert Storm version?
VIetnam, date unknown
Grenada, 1983.
US, date unknown.
Awesome
Files, hobby knife, nippers and a rotary tool. Tools needed to clean up the flash and smooth things out some.
There are many little baggies of white metal parts, so to maintain some semblance of sanity, I work on one baggie at a time.
The instructions are merely a blow up of all the parts sort of pointing to where each goes. The box top and what I find online will be used to confirm the parts’ placement.
Now, how to “darken” that nice shiny brass barrel? Blacken-It or something similar that’s used to “blacken” tracks?
Mike
